If you've spent any real time on a hole bike, you know that a klx 110 disc brake conversion is usually at the best of the "must-have" list once you start riding with any actual speed. Those stock carol brakes are great for a kid learning to trip in a smooth grassy field, but once you start jumping, hitting corners hard, or—let's become honest—adding a bunch of weight being an adult rider, the particular drums just don't cut it. These people get mushy, they will fade when they get hot, plus they're an overall nightmare once they obtain a little mud or water inside them.
Converting in order to discs changes the whole personality of the bike. It's not just about stopping faster; it's about having actual handle and feel from the lever. You go from "I hope I stop prior to that fence" to being able to trail brake directly into a corner with one finger.
Why the share drums have in order to go
The main issue with the particular stock KLX 110 setup is the fact that drum brakes rely on mechanical leverage and friction shoes that have to force outward against a heavy hub. Because those shoes obtain hot, they broaden, and the "feel" at your hand or even foot disappears. You end up pulling the lever all the way to the grasp just to get the bike to slow down.
A disc brake setup uses hydraulics. Since liquid doesn't compress like a cable stretching exercises, the pressure a person apply at the lever is transferred directly to the patches. Plus, the disc is exposed in order to the air, therefore it stays way chillier. If you're doing a build that entails a 143cc bore kit or any kind of overall performance work, keeping the particular drums is truthfully a bit questionable. You're making the particular bike faster but keeping the ending power of a 1970s moped.
Starting with the front end
Most people start their klx 110 disc brake conversion on the front because that's where about 70% of your halting power comes through. The most common method to do this—and arguably the greatest way—is to swap out the whole front end regarding KX65 parts.
The KX65 is a natural donor for your KLX 110. The forks are better, they're more time (which helps with the "pro" stance), and they come factory-equipped with the solid disc brake setup. You'll usually require a set of aftermarket triple clamps designed to place KX65 forks on to a KLX frame, but once a person have those, the particular wheel, caliper, plus master cylinder simply bolt right up.
In case you don't want to swap the forks, you can find adapter kits on the market that let you mount a caliper towards the stock hip and legs, but it's a bit of a "Frankenstein" setup. Honestly, if you're heading through the problem associated with changing the brake systems, you might mainly because well get the much better suspension that comes with the KX fork swap.
Tackling the particular rear disc conversion
The back is where things obtain a bit more complicated. As opposed to the front, where you can just exchange forks, the rear requires you in order to find a method to mount a master cylinder in order to a frame which was never designed regarding one.
To get a rear klx 110 disc brake conversion , you have got a couple of paths. The high end route is purchasing a complete swingarm and wheel kit from a firm like BBR. It's expensive, but it's engineered to fit perfectly. It consists of the mounting tabs for the master cylinder, the right spacers for the particular wheel, along with a group for the back caliper.
The more "budget-friendly" (but labor-intensive) way involves using KX65 rear components once again. You'll need a way to install the rear expert cylinder to the particular KLX frame—this generally involves welding a tab onto the particular frame near the particular footpeg mount. You also need a custom made bracket to hold the rear caliper onto the swingarm. It's a lot of measuring and potentially some fabrication, but it's the way the "garage builds" usually obtain done.
The parts you're going to need
Regardless of which route a person take, your shopping list for the klx 110 disc brake conversion is usually going to look something like this:
- The Hub/Wheel: You can't put the rotor on a drum hub. You need a hub with bolt openings for the disc. Again, KX65 wheels are usually the go-to right here.
- The Calipers: Front and rear. Make sure the particular pistons move freely; if you're buying used parts away eBay, you'll possibly wish to rebuild them with new closes.
- Grasp Cylinders: These are the "pumps" at the particular lever and the particular foot pedal.
- Brake Lines: I recommend heading with braided stainless steel lines. They don't expand under stress, making the brake systems feel even crisper.
- The Rotor: Ensure it's directly. A warped rotor will make the bike pulse every period you attempt to quit, which is extremely annoying.
Installation headaches to view out for
One thing that catches people off guard during a klx 110 disc brake conversion is the brake pedal. Since you're moving from the cable/rod-actuated drum in order to a hydraulic grasp cylinder, your stock brake pedal usually won't work with out modification. You need a your pedal that can press the plunger around the master cylinder.
Some men weld a "tang" onto their share pedal, while other people buy an automotive aftermarket pedal designed regarding disc setups. No matter what you do, guarantee the geometry is right. You don't desire to have to move your foot 6 inches just to touch the brakes.
Another common issue is steering wheel alignment. When a person switch to the disc hub, the particular spacing in the swingarm or between the forks may change. You have to be very precise together with your wheel spacers. If the steering wheel is even a few of millimeters off-center, your chain alignment will be wonky, and your brake parts will drag or even wear unevenly.
Bleeding the system
I've noticed grown men weep trying to hemorrhage brakes on the pit bike. Due to the fact the systems are usually so small, a tiny air bubble may cause a huge headaches. Once you finally obtain your klx 110 disc brake conversion all bolted up, spend some time along with the bleeding process.
A vacuum cleaner bleeder makes this way easier, yet you can do it the old-fashioned way. Just remember that since the lines are short and the master cylinders possess small reservoirs, a person have to keep a close vision for the fluid degree. If you let this get too low whilst bleeding, you'll pull air back into the particular system and have got to begin all more than again.
Is it actually worth the money?
If you're just cruising around the driveway, then no, it's probably not worth the various hundred dollars (or more) it costs to do this right. Yet if you're traveling on tracks, doing big jumps, or racing your friends, it's the best upgrade you can make—even better than an exhaust or perhaps a big bore kit.
Having the ability to stop consistently and with minimal work means you can ride faster. It sounds counterintuitive, yet better brakes cause you to a faster driver because you can remain on the gasoline longer before you have to close it down for a turn. Plus, the particular maintenance on disc brakes is way easier. Swapping patches takes two minutes, whereas cleaning plus adjusting drum sneakers is a messy, time-consuming chore.
Final thoughts on the swap
The klx 110 disc brake conversion is definitely a "next level" imod. It moves the bike away from being a "play bike" and toward being a serious piece of machinery. Whether or not you go the complete KX65 swap route or piece this together with aftermarket replacement brackets, the result may be the same: the bike that in fact stops when you wish it to. Just be ready for a little bit of trial plus error during the fitment process, and don't be afraid to ask intended for help on the particular forums or from the local shop if the manufacturing part gets a bit over your own head. Once a person feel that first one-finger endo, you'll understand it was well worth the effort.